|Title||Esattamente dove Forse i get Cartier adore braccia|
|Description||In a city as fashionable and fast changing as New York, everyone wants to know what's hot: the latest boutique, restaurant, bar or design hotel. New York has little time for nostalgia; everything moves on as fast as possible in the name of "progress". The latest landmark to bite the dust is the legendary Plaza Hotel, which closed in April. It will reopen in two years' time as retail space and multi million dollar condominiums. True, its famous Oak Room, with its panelled walls and ornate murals, has been saved, but don't be surprised to find a Starbucks next to it.
And yet, look carefully enough, and you can still find vintage classics in New York old world dining rooms, gas lit taverns, antique delis, rare apothecaries that are living, breathing reminders of the city's storied past. On a quiet street in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge in Lower Manhattan stands the oldest commercial wood frame building still in use in New York. The red, slat wood structure dates from 1793 when it was home to six Irish prostitutes. Between 1857 and 1979 it was a dive bar frequented by cops, hookers and dock workers, ("Popeye" Doyle in The French Connection was modelled on a regular and a section of the film was shot outside). Today, it's a romantic 16 table seafood restaurant serving specialities such as Lobster Pot Pie and Seared Diver Scallops, all sourced from the nearby South Street Seaport fish market. With a keen eye for its history, the family who bought it in 1979 have maintained the original pressed tin ceilings, antique bar counter and frosted mirrors. Those six prostitutes might still recognise it. The face brick faade on a dingy street across the Williamsburg Bridge in Brooklyn promises little,love cartier bangle replica, but enter the sawdust covered wood floor interior and you are in the greatest steak house in America. The antique cash register, worn oak tables, and leaded glass windows have barely changed since Bavarian migrant Peter Luger opened it in 1887,replica cartier love bracelet, and even the grumpy old German waiters seem preserved in aspic. In 1950 it was bought at auction by Sol Forman and it has been run by three generations of Forman women ever since. The restaurant is always given first choice of the best prime beef at New York's meat markets; Peter Luger's meat is dry aged on the premises and best experienced when you order the restaurant's extraordinary Porterhouse steak, which melts in the mouth like foie gras. Bring cash as the owners have no idea what credit cards are. And book months in advance. The Plaza may have gone but the Art Deco masterpiece that is the Waldorf Astoria is still going strong, and where better to experience it than in its flagship restaurant? First built by the Astor family in 1893 on the site where the Empire State Building now stands, the Waldorf was recreated on an entire Park Avenue block in 1931, and the fittings of the wood paneled Bull Bear come from the original hotel. Walk through the Park Avenue Lobby, past the terrace where Cole Porter's piano tinkles, and the restaurant is at the far end of the hotel. It specialises in prime Angus steak and seafood, while in the adjoining bar, power brokers and politicians sip martinis at an antique mahogany counter, with an electronic ticker tape running down Wall Street share prices. Start with a Waldorf Salad created here in 1896 by the hotel's then matre d', Oscar Tschirky.
Rao's (455 East 114th St, East Harlem; 722 6709). A number of century old Italian restaurants remain in the city John's of 12th Street (302 East 12th Street) and Vincent's in Little Italy among the best but none have the mystique and aura of Rao's. Possibly the most exclusive restaurant in America, it's a basement hole in the wall in a seedy part of East Harlem owned by Frankie Pellegrino: opera singer, Sopranos actor and descendent of Charles Rao, who opened it in 1896. The restaurant's dozen tables and booths are "owned" by the customers, and you can only eat here at their invitation. You can, however, come in, sip a martini at the bar and watch politicians, celebrities and mob bosses dine together on exquisite old country Italian fare while wise guys stand guard outside. Woody Allen is a regular and it's one of the few places on earth where you can put a Tony Bennett CD on the jukebox then watch him eat. Stay at the bar long enough and, who knows, Frankie may just offer you a table.
Saloons, bars, lounges
With its swing doors, sawdust covered wood floors and dim lighting, McSorley's (15 East 7th St; 473 9148) in the East Village is the oldest and most beautiful Irish bar in the city. It claims to have opened in 1854, though historians say it was more likely 1862. Whatever, it still took them another 106 years to let women in. In the poem i was sitting in mcsorley's, ee cummings describes it as "snugandevil". See if you agree.
Chumley's (86 Bedford St; 675 4449) in the West Village dates from the 1830s and is a little harder to find. Set in a low ceiling basement on a leafy residential street, it still has no sign on the door a consequence of its many years as a famed speakeasy. Hemingway, Fitzgerald and Dylan Thomas have sat in those gnarled booths, though today as at McSorely's it's mostly packed with businessmen, students and tourists.
For a funkier historic experience, head to the rickety Ear Inn (326 Spring St; 226 9060) a short walk from the Hudson River in west SoHo. The bar, a former brewery, smugglers' den and bordello, dates from 1817 and was popular with longshoremen from the nearby Hudson hence the portholes, mounted boats and other maritime dcor. Today, artists, musicians and SoHo loft dwellers come for fine ales, margaritas, hamburgers and live music.
The Hotel Algonquin (59 West, 44th St, 840 6800) in the theatre district offers a more refined experience. Built in 1902, its Gilded Age grandeur has faded somewhat, but the red carpeted lobby with its antique furniture, potted palms and dark oak tables is a soothing oasis from the world outside. Dorothy Parker famously held court here in the 1920s and if you order a martini from one of the venerable waiters, it comes with a well known quote of hers printed on a napkin. "I like a martini, two at the very most, three I'm under the table, four I'm under the host", reads one. You might stick to afternoon tea. The magnificent Oak Room adjacent still showcases the best cabaret and jazz acts in the city.
In the late 1800s Czech migrants fleeing the Austro Hungarian Empire settled in Queen's New York. In 1892 a group of them formed the Bohemian Citizens' Benevolent Society and purchased a piece of farmland for a community centre in Astoria, Queen's. Today, the Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden (29 19 24th Ave, (Queens); 718 274 4925) is the largest drinking space in New York, its huge bench filled beer garden packed on summer days with the descendents of those migrants downing flagons of fine Czech pilsner and grilling kielbasa sausages on open coal fires. Inside, the Hall has an enormous bar and basement restaurant reminiscent of a Prague working men's club.
Delis, groceries, cafes
In the early 1900s, the Lower East Side was home to a thriving Eastern European Jewish community, and dozens of kosher delis lined the streets, selling the knishes, blintzes, borsht and strudel the migrants loved from back home. Today only a few remain among all the cocktail bars and pizza joints. Katz's (205 East Houston St; 254 2246), which opened in 1888, is perhaps the most famous. You're given a ticket at the entrance and line up at glass counters to order basic deli fare: pickles, knockwurst, salami, frankfurters, potato salad. Four US Presidents have done so, Bill Clinton devouring two hot dogs and a pastrami on rye sandwich in one sitting.
A block west is the fabulous Russ Daughters (179 East Houston St; 475 4880), a former herring shop, now an upmarket deli selling everything from smoked salmon and beluga caviar to gourmet chocolate and rugelach pastries. Joel Russ, who started selling herring from a wood cart in 1900, opened the tiny shop in 1914 but discovered business only picked up when his three beautiful daughters worked behind the counter. He made them partners hence the name. Today one of his grandsons runs the business, sourcing produce from all over the world. An oil painting of Russ Sr. gazes down from the wall.
Yonah Schimmel Knishery (137 East Houston St; 477 2858) another block west is a tiny space with a few rustic wood tables that has barely changed since the local rabbi, Yonah Schimmel, started baking the delicious potato snacks mixed with onions, spices and vegetables, back in 1910. Today, it's run by the fifth generation of the family.
The East Village used to be home to a thriving Italian community. Today it's full of Indian restaurants and Korean delis. But De Robertis (176 First Ave; 674 7137) survives from that time: a narrow basement caf with pressed tin ceilings,love bracelets cartier replica, tiled floors and marble tables selling exquisite southern Italian pastries such as chocolate cannoli, pignoli cookies and tiramis. Martin Scorsese regularly pops in for the jam filled cookies.
Down in Little Italy proper, Caff Roma (385 Broome St; 226 8413) is a beautiful corner caf with frosted mirrors, ocean green walls and ceilings, tiled floors and an old saloon clock that has been in the space since the 1870s. Sip an espresso on the pavement tables outside and you can believe you're in Rome.
Chinatown has long encroached on Little Italy, but the fabled Di Palo Dairy (200 Grand St; 226 1033) is now in the fourth generation of the Di Palo family and still going strong. Owner Sal Di Palo and his brother source cheeses, cured meats, olive oil and aged balsamic from all over Italy, just as their great grandfather did in the early 1900s. Italians still crowd the store at weekends, though increasingly the customers buying home made ricotta, mozzarella and olives are Chinese.
It looks like a run down paint shop or hardware store but New York Central Art Supply (62 Third Ave; 473 7705), a family business started by a Russian migrant, Benjamin Steinberg, in 1905,cartier Bangless love replica, has supplied premium paints, canvas, paper and a vast range of brushes to New York's greatest artists, among them Jackson Pollock and Willem De Kooning. Today only William Barthman (174 Broadway (corner of Maiden Lane); 732 0890) remains from that time. It was known as the Downtown Tiffany, and customers included JP Morgan, Cornelius Van Der Bilt and gambler "Diamond" Jim Brady, who spent millions on gems here for the actress Lillian Russell. Today, Bowne Company (211 Water St; 748 8651) is located in an 1830s print works opposite its original location in the South Street Seaport, and functions as a museum and working print shop. Back then it sold balding oils and virility creams; old medicine jars and antique scales lining the shelves next to tubes and bottles of creams and oils are reminders of that time. There are also Harley Davidson motorbikes on the floor and pictures of model aeroplanes on the walls the owner was a fighter pilot in the Second World War. The eccentric look is matched by its marketing: staff members are reprimanded if they do not give away enough stock so don't be surprised to walk out with free samples of cleansers, hair care products and shaving cream. Recent Artcle£º
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